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Asparagus: nature’s Viagra

Feature

Asparagus has long been known as an aphrodisiac. And now, thanks to TV chef Jamie Oliver’s TV campaign, so many people have been turned on to this sexy food that we are running out of home-grown crops and having to import it from abroad.

One of the UK’s most versatile vegetables, it has a short summer season in May and June but can now be enjoyed all year round thanks to foreign imports. It is full-flavoured, deliciously sweet and tender and is crammed with essential vitamins and minerals.

There is actually a lot of truth behind the legend that asparagus “stirs up lust in man and woman” (Nicholas Culpepper 1616-1654, a legendary figure in the field of herbal medicine).

The vegetable has been in and out of favour over the centuries, but has become immensely fashionable in the past 10 years, particularly in the past two. Its increased popularity may be because it is no longer perceived as an upper-class vegetable. Asparagus features regularly in cookery sections of women’s magazines, possibly spurred on by a growing interest in healthy eating. Asparagus is an excellent source of folic acid and vitamins, and is low in fat, calories and carbohydrates.

Its broad base of nutrients including potassium and vitamin A provide general well-being, which ultimately stimulates the glandular and metabolic function, boosting sex drive. More importantly, the inability to reach orgasm in both men and women is linked with a lack of histamines. Histamine production appears to be triggered by folic acid, so asparagus as the leading folic acid containing vegetable can help people reach their sexual peak.

Traditionally eaten with the fingers, it is also a seductive eating experience. Not to mention that the shape of the stems is distinctly phallic.

Asparagus, “the queen of vegetables”, is highly prized for its delicate taste: mellow, earthy, verdant, seductive and luxurious. And best of all it is so easy to prepare. Top British chefs are falling over themselves to extol the virtues of this sexy veggie.

Oliver, the man who started the asparagus gold-rush, says: “When good British asparagus is in season there is absolutely nothing like it. Simply cooked, boiled, steamed, grilled or roasted, it can be served as a starter or as a side dish and served with cooked meat or fish.

“When buying asparagus, I always look for plump, deep green asparagus, but the thin ones can be just as gorgeous.

“I don’t believe in mucking around too much with asparagus – whatever flavours you add should be subtle, such as good olive oil or butter; or extremely complementary, such as anchovy butter or Gorgonzola cheese.”

Delia Smith agrees. “English asparagus is without any doubt the best in the world,” she says. “Asparagus has a painfully short season in England – just two months, May and June. So we all need to be on full asparagus alert and make absolutely sure we feast appropriately and not let the season whiz by.”

Asparagus comes in a variety of colours – green, white, purple, and multicoloured – and different sizes ranging from very thin, called sprue, to very plump, or jumbo.

Nicola Watkins of the Asparagus Growers’ Association, advises that the best way to grow your own asparagus is to “buy a crown that is already a year old, plant it in April, and it will be ready to harvest in the third year”.

She says: “The English climate allows asparagus to grow slowly over three years, producing a full flavour and tender texture,” but warns: “Everything – planting, cutting, weeding – has to be done by hand. It’s very labour-intensive. Coupled with other factors such as the unreliability and delicacy of the crop, its short season, and its scarcity, this makes it very expensive.”

When shopping for asparagus choose spears with tight buds. Buds that have started to open up will be less than fresh. Snap off the hard stalk at the bottom – save to use in stocks – tie the spears in a bundle, stand them upright, and steam them for three to five minutes, depending on their size.

Asparagus goes well with butter, cheese and eggs. It also goes well with herbs such as tarragon and chervil and mild meats such as chicken and white fish. Eat the spears simply with melted butter, hollandaise or vinaigrette or cook them in soups, risottos, tarts, soufflés and gratins.

Try roasting or grilling them and cover with parmesan shavings. Or stir-fry them Hong Kong-style with ginger and sesame oil. You could also braise them Japanese-style in sake and mirin.

For a special treat, cook asparagus simply with morel mushrooms or truffles and eat them accompanied by a glass of chilled white wine – a sauvignon blanc from New Zealand or a good French sancerre would be ideal, as would an Austrian grüner veltliner, if you can find a bottle.



MyVillage 25th October




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