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The opening of Harvey Nichols' new
cosmetics department, Beyond Beauty, this month, claims to herald
a transformation in the way we buy beauty products. Space NK broke
the mould when it opened in 1994 selling an eclectic mix of niche
brands and the best of more familiar international ranges in modern
surroundings. But essentially what the store offered was a supermarket
retail ethos, albeit a very expensive and prestigious one. It worked,
and seven years on, Nicky Kinnaird's empire has expanded to 18 stores,
with more planned.
Harvey Nichols took note and briefed
design agency Four IV to create the ambience of a boutique with
the choice and convenience associated with a department store. The
effect intends to be clean but not sterile. The "free-access" space
has no counters or obvious branding, but plasma screens offer instant
answers and cures for those put off by over-made- up shop assistants.
Those assistants will, however, be on hand if you're brave enough
to discuss your beauty dilemma with an orange-faced, tarantula-
lashed shop girl.
"Beyond Beauty reaches out to real
people who have real-life problems to solve - think vodka and vitamins,
Bollinger and Botox, champagne and colonics," claims Daniela Rinaldi,
the store's perfumery and cosmetics controller, in a baffling display
of ignorance of what real people's real- life problems actually
are. Take the store's Sage candles blended with essential oils to
match birthstones. They aim to soothe, but at £55 come at
a most unrelaxing price. Less costly is Hei Poa's Polynesian manufactured
body and bath range, made from oils extracted from Tahitian flowers;
its shampoo costs £6.50 but is so esoteric that the instructions
on the bottle come only in French.
Celebrities are, of course, boasted
of: Art Luna - the haircare range of LA colourist Luna - has Cameron
Diaz and Claire Danes as its clients.
With products like these, Harvey
Nichols is clearly hoping to cash in on the Space NK phenomenon.
A valuable new service or a marketing gimmick? Decide for yourself.
That's jammy: Harvey Nichols' new
beauty department will stock never-heard-of-before brands such as
Star & Rose Jam Gel, £7, but do we want them?
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